Top NY Eyebrow Specialist Elke Von Freudenberg and creator of The Model BrowÂ® Service shares her advice on the top 5 brow shapes NOT to do, that you may want to avoid the next time you pick up your tweezers.
1. THE ROUND EYEBROW
Most commonly called, “the happy eyebrow”, it borders on an almost 1/2 circle shape. This happens when the tweezer keeps trying to create more of an arch, but is not sure where the arch is. So they keep tweezing from underneath the eyebrow in the wrong place, creating a 1/2 circle. The round eyebrow has replaced the ‘tadpole’ eyebrow (thick in front, which goes to an immediate thin arch and end of the brow) as the current most seen brow mishap.
FIX: Create your arch only at the outside corner of your iris. Then tweeze a straight line from the beginning of the brow to the arch, to create a stronger, more dramatic arch to the brow without having to tweeze so much.
2. THE ARCH IN THE WRONG PLACE
Or, in most cases, the arch is too far outside the eye. This happens when the arch is created by a pencil lining up to the side of the nose to the outside iris of the eye. What happens is that the eyes actually end up looking crossed eyed (especially in photos) and too close together. Having an arch placed too far out creates the illusion that the eye is actually closer to the nose than it really is. So sadly, this does not create a ‘wide’ eyed appearance as most think it does. Instead, you get the actual opposite, eyes that look far too close together.
FIX: To move the arch closer to the inner corner of the eye, pull 2/3 hairs at the arch, going towards the nose to move the arch in.
3. THE STRAIGHT EYEBROW
A straight eyebrow is when the arch of the eyebrow either never existed which is rare, or too much brow was taken off the top of the arch of the eyebrow, which flattens the arch and creates a straight line to the eyebrow.
FIX: Avoid tweezing any hairs above the brows that are actually touching the eyebrow. This will keep the brow shape, and keep the area above the brows clean looking without touching and flattening the arch.
4. USING STENCILS TO CREATE YOUR BROW SHAPE.
You really can’t do a cookie cutter approach to shaping eyebrows. Why? Because everyone’s bone structure and eye shape is different, and your eyebrow shape really has to do with the bone that’s underneath the brow. That determines the eyebrow look and shape that are uniquely yours.
FIX: Rely on stencils to create a perfect eyebrow look with shadows and pencils, but do not use it as a guide to tweezing.
5. TOO CUT EYEBROWS
The super cut eyebrow looks good for one day and then as it grows in, looks horrible. What happens next? You cut them again only to repeat the vicious cycle. The super cut eyebrows are cut way too short and trimmed the wrong way.
FIX: To trim very long brow hairs, brush brows up and cut to 1/4â€ above the brow line. Then brush the brow hairs into place into the eyebrow to see where the brow falls. By keeping the length, you also avoid the cut off hairs that can create a too short eyebrow at the end of the brow. Keep the length as much as you can. Tip: Never trim brows from the ends towards the arch. You need the length to give the length of the brow and to avoid the brow looking choppy. You rarely need to trim here anyway. Instead, focus on the length of the brows in the front only.