3 : Brow Analysis

In analyzing a brow shape, you must take into consideration what type of brow the client already has, and what you have to work with.

Analyzing a Brow is broken down into 4 categories:

1. Brow Strength
2. Brow Line
3. What’s Missing
4. Points of Balance
   

1. BROW STRENGTH:

• Thick
• Thin

Brow strength means how strong the brow’s appearance is in comparison to the client’s own face, bone structure, hair color and style.

Brow Strength comes in 2 views:

1. Thick

The brow is very thick and stands out in sharp contrast to the client’s face, bone structure and hairstyle. The thick brow is most often the most dramatic of the brow types. If the brow is the first thing that you see on a client’s face as you analyze her, her brows will be ‘thick’ strength.

2. Thin

The thin brow is very thin, with a few rows of hair and often disappears into the client’s face. But a thin brow can also be a thin brow that looks too thin next to a client’s strong bone structure, and / or strong hair style. If the hairstyle is very strong, and the brow is very thin, the balance of the brow is off and makes the brow appear ‘too’ thin.

 

Now, the view of how thick or how thin you are viewing a brow can change based on the current brow trend at the moment. A brow shape that was considered normal a few years ago, can now seem too thin, The current thick brow which is now in trend, was considered too thick 10 years ago. Base the brow strength on what it is compared to the current brow trend.
The majority of clients are either or. Very rarely will you find a client who’s eyebrow strength is perfect.

2. BROW LINE:

• Straight
• Round

The line of the brow is the exact line that the brow is showing you as you analyze it. It’s not the shape that you want to do, it’s the line that you are looking at. What are you seeing? Most brows will fall into 1 of these two categories:

Straight -
No arch
Or as I call it, the ‘Flatline”. The eyebrow has no arch at all. It’s just a straight flat line.

 

The flatness of a client’s brow can be caused by how the brow naturally grows. But more likely than not, this type of Brow Line has become flat because of over tweezing and/or waxing from above and below the brow, thus causing the arch of the brow to flatten and disappear.

Round -
Curved or too High Arch

The round brow either looks like a 1/2 circle, or has no straightness to it, as in a rounded line from beginning to end. This line usually happens when the client tries to create an arch but doesn’t understand where the arch begins and ends. The arch of the brow becomes a half circle instead.

NOTE: The brow can appear different based on the brow makeup they have on. Always analyze without any brow makeup applied. Brow makeup can drastically change the brow’s look.

 

 

3. WHAT’S MISSING:

• No front
• No end

A missing brow is when the brow is too short in front, or when there’s too much space between the brow and the bridge of the nose. A brow is also missing when a brow appears too short at the end of the brow, looking like it was cut off. A missing brow can be because of lack of hair growth, or the hairs have been waxed or tweezed off completely.

4. POINTS OF BALANCE

• Bone Structure
• Eye Structure
• Hair Length

How does the brow look compared to the bone structure, eye structure and type of hair? The brow needs to be in balance in order for it all to work together. If it’s not, the brow will always look off.

1. Bone Structure
Forget looking at a face to determine the type of face shape they have, if they’re a oval, diamond, heart, etc. Instead, look at the strength of the face. Do the bones of the face look strong or soft? Is the face angular and hard looking? Or is it rounded, with softer features? Are you looking at a strong or soft bone structure?

 

Soft or strong?

 

 

 

 

2. Eye Structure

The eye structure is similar to the bone structure as in are the eyes soft or strong? The eye usually follows the strength or softness of the bone structure. But don’t be fooled. An eye that looks soft, is usually appearing that way because it’s a soft rounded brow, that’s on a strong, angular face. Don’t look at the brow during this part. Just look at the eyes. The eyebrow bone, the crease, the shape of the eye. Let that tell you the structure of the actual eye.

Strong or soft eyes?

3. Hair Length

Is the hair style very long, yet the brows are very thin? Or vice versa. The hair is very short, but the brows are very thick. Is their hair very long? A stonger brow works best. Short hair? A softer, thinner brow is in better balance with short hair. Just think of a very thick strong brow with a super short hair cut. The balance is off…

When first looking at a client, look first to see what their type is analyzing what they already have. Look at their:

1. Brow Strength:
2. Brow Line:
3. Brow Missing?
4. Points of Balance

• bone structure
• eye structure
• hair length

Once you have determined the brow type you are looking at, THEN you align the eyebrow and see where the ‘points‘ of the brow should be as explained in Chapter Four. You can only achieve the best brow for your client when you know what it is you are working on.

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HOMEWORK:

EMAIL 3 photos of brow types and explain what their Brow Types are. And no, they can’t be the photos that you are seeing above. Choose 3 photos of either actual clients or from the internet and analyze them:

What is their:
1. Brow Strength
2. Brow Line
3. Missing Brow
4. Brow Balance

• bone structure
• eye structure
• hair length

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Chapter 4 will be password protected, to be given upon completion of Ch: 3 Homework.