8 : The Model Brow® Service

Analysis

• Analyze and explain the eyebrow shape that they have. What are you needing to do?
• Explain the process and what you see that needs to be done before you do it.
• Show them a mirror, and show them exactly what and where you will be reshaping, fixing or realigning the brow. Also explain why you’re doing this.

Step by Step Technique

These steps can be used either with an eyebrow chair, or sitting up in a makeup chair. If working with a facial bed, do all work, plus clean up work, lying down. Then do all Design Work, to adjust, realign and fix brows with the client sitting up to insure a perfect balance between their bone structure and eye shape.

1. Introduction

Hands are washed, and/or sanitized with hand sanitizer, before touching the client during the Introduction Stage.

Client Experience: Spritz the back of your hands after sanitation, with The Model Brow® Aromatherapy Spray.

This helps the client to relax while you work, and creates a wonderful environment for your client. The scent relaxes and calms. Keep the scent on the back or the palm of the hands to avoid touching any oils to the client’s skin.

2. Clean
Remove any excess eyebrow makeup with a oil-free facial cleanser, and then remove any oils or residue with witch hazel.

Client Recommendation: If client is wishing to grow in brow hairs, have her use our The Brow Scrub nightly, for 2 weeks. Check results. Can taper down to 2/3x per week for 1 month after that to maintain. Client should see results in as soon as 2 weeks in hairs growing back in thicker, faster, and in places that were not growing before.

3. Brow Clean Up : Waxing (optional) or Tweezing
Wax any stray hairs that do not belong to the brow, both above/below/between the brows. Do both brows.

TIP

• The Model Brow™ Service is to shape the brows with as little removed as possible and then look to see if anything is still needed. Always offer to reshape/fix/clean up the eyebrow with the least amount of removal possible. If more needs to be done, then do more but only with their permission. You can always take off more, you can never put a hair back.
• Everyone has one brow that is shaped better than the other. I call this the good brow. One brow is closer to the ideal shape than the other, or the line of the brow is stronger in one. Do this brow first, regardless of which one it is. Shape, with the least amount of tweezing, to bring out the shape.

1. Shape Eyebrow #1 . Show
2. Shape Eyebrow #2 . Show

TIP

• Keep the tip of the tweezers on the skin the whole time as you tweeze. Do not lift the tweezer off the skin to pull the hair.  This causes the ouch factor. It’s the skin moving that hurts, not the hair. To avoid a pinching effect, keep the tweezer tip on the skin as you tweeze, from grab to pull. Try keeping the tweeer on the skin the entire time you are pulling out the brow hair.
• Hold skin down with a disposable mascara wand above the point where you are tweezing. Brush brows up and then hold down the skin with the wand. This removes the ‘ouch’ factor.

Brow Clean Up Technique:
Round Tip Tweezer

THE ORDER OF SHAPING

There’s  a very specific reason for shaping brows in a specific order. By tweezing less sensitive areas first, you can gage the client’s sensitivity and see how she reacts. It also gives the client a chance to adjust and relax once they’ve realized that it doesn’t hurt as much as they think.  And it lets you work quicker.

Step by step order of where to tweeze:

1. Tweeze between the brows first.
This helps the client to relax, since this is the most comfortable part of the brow to shape with the least, if any discomfort. This also lets you gage their comfort level and how sensitive their skin is.

2. Clean above the brow.
Clean all the stray hairs above the brow. If the hair is not touching the actual eyebrow, then you are not interfering with the actual shape of the brow.

3. Clean below the brow.

Only clean hairs that are way below the brow and have nothing to do with the brow. If the hair is touching the brow in any way, this would be part of the design work, not clean up work.

Design Work Technique

Go in with the slant tweezer and create a straight line with the tweezer, by removing hair closest to the brow. Create your ‘line’ as you tweeze following the exact same order as the clean work.

4. Top of the Eyebrow Line
Check the line of the brow right along the top of the brow. Clean and remove any strays to make the brow line straight from beginning to arch and arch to end.

5. Clean End of Brow to middle of arch.
Next clean up from underneath, from the outer end of brow, working in towards the arch. You avoid over tweezing this area and keeping as much of the brow as possible. Clean everything except hairs that are touching the brow.

6. Clean Beginning of brow to arch.
Next clean up from underneath the front of the brow to the arch. Again, avoid all hairs touching the brow.

7. Arch Alignment.
Check the arch guideline. Does it need to be moved over?

8. Align top horizontal brow line from arch to arch.
is one brow higher than the other? If so, remove 1 hair at a time from the top of the highest brow to make sure the brows are aligned straight horizontally from arch to arch.

9. Align bottom horizontal brow line.
Does the brow line up at beginning and end in 1 straight horizontal line? If not, the beginning may need to be taken up a bit.

Review of the Order of Shaping:

1. Between the brows
2. Above the brows
3. Top of the brow at the arch
4. End of brow to arch
5. Beginning of the brow to arch
6. Line C : Top horizontal line across both brows .  Is this a straight horizontal line?
7. Line B : Bottom horizontal line across both brows . Is this a straight horizontal line?

TIP: To create a more elegant brow, make sure the line of the brow from the beginning of the brow to the arch is a straight line, both along the top and the bottom. This creates a straighter line and gives a more elegant look.(See below)

It also keeps the brow from ‘curving’ and creating a round brow which can give the ‘surprised’ look.

The Reveal
1. Show the client the first shaped brow.
Have the client see the difference between the shaped and realigned brow, next to the unshaped brow. By her being able to see the difference, she is

• able to see if she likes this shape,and
• able to see if she’s wanting more removed or not.

2. If the shape is approved, then copy the same lines as seen in brow #1 to brow #2. Check points to make sure they align correctly.

Final Fine Tuning:
1. Go in with pointed, or pointed slant tweezer and clean up any short or ingrown hairs closest to the brow shape for the cleanest brow at the end of your service.

Client Reactions:

Check to see how the client reacts:

1. Sneezing? You’re hitting the nerve that runs around the eye, and triggering a reflex.

2. Eyes watering? Nose running? The client may be having allergies and you’re touching the sinuses which triggers a response.

3. Skin turning pink? Blood vessels are very close to the surface, and any touch to the skin makes the skin respond. Be extra gentle.

4. Skin shows little red bumps a few minutes after you’ve tweezed: The hair follicole is closing to try to save the hair from being pulled. Once it realizes that the hair is gone, the hair follicole relaxes and the little bumps disappear in 2/3 hours, if not sooner.

5. Skin shows little red bumps, and/or breakouts 2/3 days after appointment: You or your client used a product that had oil, was heavy, greasy or thick (such as a thick sunscreen, foundation) which entered the hair follicole and caused a breakout. Only use oil-free products and advise the client to do the same for 2/3 hours after her service to avoid breakouts.

6. Skin very sensitive, or strong ‘ouch’ factor after pull: Rather than tapping the skin to relieve discomfort, instead just press on the skin, which does the same trick but without the movement.

Trimming

If hairs are long, only use Cuticle Scissors to trim. Because of the curved blade, it makes it much easier to trim brow hairs without making them look as if they are ‘cut’.

1. Brush hairs straight up to see which are the longest.
2. Hold the hairs in place, brushed up with a disposable mascara wand.
3. With the scissors pointed down, or vertically, cut into the brow, one hair at a time, going from the inner, to the outer corner of the brow.
4. Trim hair to slightly above, or 1/4″ above the brow line.
5. Brush the hairs in the direction of hair growth to check length.
6. For brows that grow horizontally across, brush down with mascara wand, and lift brow hairs up with wand.
7. Cut into brow hair directly into, and horizontally into the tip of the hair, about 1/4″ longer than the brow.
8. Brush hair to see where it lies.

HOMEWORK:

1. Shape the brows of  3 clients and show before/during/after photos of your work.
2. Explain the brow shape and what needed fixing, and how you fixed it.
3. EMAIL me the photos/or link to images.

Name

Email

Subject

Message

Enter the text above

The next CH 10 is password protected and will be given upon completion of this step.